It probably won't be able to cover the edges of the laptop's cover but as long as it covers the flat top, it will be fine. Maybe I can find a nice wood grain vinyl shelf cover that will work. Now that looks like an easy, foolproof, looks good method.īecause my laptop is old and on it's last leg, (and because I'm cheap ), I'm going to expand on your suggestion and look for an adhesive vinyl shelf cover. I did it just to jazz up my laptop, but it should eliminate your sticky lid issue.
I uploaded one of my photos to Schtickers and had a precise cut, tough vinyl "skin" made for my little laptop. After 50 years of spraying all types of spray paint (including automotive) and various objects, believe me. Ps - did I mention to mask off carefully before spraying? The spray WILL go where you don't want it (monitor screen, keyboard) if not well/tightly masked off. (Yes we had Rustoleum in 1960 and before, since 1921).Īnd please do keep us informed of what works for you. Why do I keep suggesting Rustoleum brand? Because in my 50 years of experience using canned spray paint, Rustoleum is the best in every way. They also have a "crinkle/textured" finish that might look nice. Rustoleum has some metallic colors that might look nice. Use the one that is closet color match to the final color coat. One of their primers might be a good first coat. Seal the top away from oxygen and problem gone. Likely it is reaction with the oxygen in air. So, what is likely causing the stickyness? The Makita right angle grinder sounds like Plan-C. I'm planning to check the hardware store first to see if they have a spray that says it will stick to rubber first. I have a spray can or two of Rustoleum in my storage cabinet.
If not, I have a Makita right-angle grinder with a diamond cut blade If you're in my neighbor hood, come over and we'll find one that works. Myself, I have a nice selection of solvents - paint thinner, turpentine, naptha, toluene, xylene, acetone, MEK, methyl alcohol, 1,1,1 trichloroethane, laquer thinner. Whenever you spray, mask, mask, Mask off carefully and tightly, spray will find a way where it is not wanted if it can. After several hours how does it feel? If feels ok then leave it on for a couple weeks and then decide to spray or not rest of top. One LIGHT coat then two more light coats at about 15-30 minute intervals. Mask off the sticky side except for about a i inch square. Get a spray can of Rustoleum, color of your choice, $4. Wonder if a paint of some kind would cover and trap the sticky?Īs a desperate try, solution. Something easier than rubbing off the sticky coating a little at a time. I'll try it as plan-B.įor plan-A, I'm hoping there's a way to coat the cover with clear or colored paint or maybe a rubber based coating.
Especially when they are not sure what the original paints underneath were made of. This is what artistic painting conservators and restorers use, when they want to remove the old varnish. What I would make sure of is that the particular solvent is not dissolving the base plastic material ! So gentle does it and test in an incospicuous spot. and progress with the various solvents until you find one that the rubbing cloth (or paper) comes up dirty, i.e, it is dissolving & picking up the coating. I suggest you gently test various solvents, the milder the better, starting with paper or a cloth soaked in soap & water, alcohol & water, alcohol by itself, household cleaner, paint thinner & water, paint thinner itself, etc. After storage for several years, the coating got sticky! The only solution was to dissolve and rub-away the coating, down to the plain plastic surface. Had that happen to my 15+ year old binoculars.